Friendly-Fishy Blog » chemicals

Aquascaping Topic: Most Dreaded Algae

DJKronik57 — Thu, 30 Apr 2009 13:50:00 +0000

Algae is to the aquascaper as weeds are to the gardener. It's a never ending battle to keep your hard work from being consumed in a gooey, smelly mess. Granted, we'll never be 100% victorious, since some level of algae is natural, but it still we do everything short of using chemicals (and some people even use these in a desperate last ditch attempt) to try to get the upper hand.

While most aquascapers and planted aquarium hobbyists have probably encountered nearly every type of algae in their careers, we all have a particular type of algae we dread the most. For me, it used to be Cladophora sp., but now, I just cannot seem to kick this black brush algae (BBA). It's sprouted up all over the place and despite having my CO2 high enough to make my fish gasp it doesn't seem to want to go away. So what type of algae do you dread the most?

Earth Day and Aquariums

Fish Fan — Wed, 22 Apr 2009 21:44:00 +0000

Since its Earth Day, try to keep in mind how your aquarium impacts your environmental footprint. Here are some tips to keep your green without turning it green.

Use aquarium light timers
- You will save electricity and maintenance headaches if you use light timers to only run your lights for max 8 hours a day.
Stay away from Chemicals if possible
- It is always better to use natural remedies to problems with your tanks rather than using chemicals.
Buy tank raised livestock
- Buying tank raised livestock keeps our oceans stocked and curbs the threat of poaching and cyanide fishing.

Black Knife Ghost Fish

Yu-Jin Lim — Thu, 11 Sep 2008 17:49:00 +0000

Data Sheet
Scientific Name:	Apteronotus albifrons
Other Names:	Ghost Knife Fish,
Origin:	Amazon Basin
Adult Size:	60cm (23.62 inches)
Social:	Good with larger fish
Lifespan:	no official figures, but some hobbiest have them for as long as over five years
Tank Level:	Medium / Low
Minimum Tank Size:	55 gallons for small / medium size fish
Diet:	Carnivorous.
Breeding:	Egg Layers
Care:	Intermediate - Advance
Ideal pH:	6-8
Temperature:	72-82 F (23-28 C)
Tank setup:	Ideally with plants and a tube for hiding
Sexing:	Difficult to determine the sex

Description:

The Black Ghost Knife fish is all black except for two white rings on its tail, and a white blaze on its nose, which can occasionally extend into a stripe down its back. It moves mainly by undulating a long fin on its underside.

They are nocturnal, but they are weakly electric fish and use an electric organ and receptors distributed over the length of their body in order to locate insect larvae.

Habitat/Care:

Black knife ghost fish require a large tank due to their large size. Black Knife Ghost Fish should not be kept with small fish such as neon terta, rummy nose terta etc as these smaller fish may be eaten.

It is recommended that you provide many hiding places with plants, rocks, wood for these fishes as they are shy and like to hide. Black Knife Ghost Fish are nocturnal and will spend most of the daylight hours hiding in the rocks or among the plants or in tubes. Once they adapt to their new home, they may come out of hiding at feeding time. Some have even been taught to feed from their keeper’s hand.

The difficulty with keeping this fish is that they are highly sensitive to chemicals, including solutions for a wide selection of medicine such as white spot treatment etc as they are scaleless - these chemicals intented for helping the fish may kill them instead.

Diet:

Black Ghost Knifefish are carnivorous and feed on insect larvae as well as smaller fishes.You could feeding them some small feeder fish (for larger black knife ghost fish), fresh or fresh frozen foods such as bloodworms, brine shrimp or blackworms for smaller black knife ghost fish.

Breeding:

There are no records of successful breeding in captivity, but black knife ghost fish are breeded and export in fish farms in South East Asia (Indoesia, Singapore, Thailand) and exported, although the method used is unknown.

References Cited:

1. Knife Fish [Online], [Available], http://fish.mongabay.com/knifefish.htm

2. Black Knife Ghost Fish [Online], [Available], http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Apteronotus_albifrons

3. Bad Man Tropical Fish, [online], [Available], http://badmanstropicalfish.com/profiles/profile66_comment.html

5 tips for keeping healthy fish in a healthy tank

Yu-Jin Lim — Thu, 03 Jul 2008 09:37:00 +0000

This week, I have a guest blogger,Michelle, from My Aquarium Club Blog. She can be reached at http://www.myaquariumclub.co m /blogs. Michelle would love to offer some tips for keeping healthy fishes.

1 - Water changes: the first and the most important rule is to change the entire water of the tank every month – 25% each weak is a reasonable solution. The water changes helps to remove contaminants and waste byproducts from the aquarium and replace them with fresh clean water

2. - Consistent Temperature: fish cannot regulate body temperature so changes to the water temperature are creating a lot of stress for the fish. You'll have to ask for the right temp for your fish and make sure that all your fish can live at the same temp range. Be careful during water changes not to add too cold or too warm water.

3. - Don’t use too many chemicals or products: Chemicals are not very helpful for a healthy tank and this includes pH adjusters and medicines. The only chemicals that go into my tanks are tap water, water conditioner to remove chlorine, charcoal in the filters and aquarium salt (if needed). If you need to adjust the pH of the water, there are natural things you can use such as rocks or substrate to raise the pH or wood or plants to lower it. This way you'll stabilize the pH without creating too much ups and downs.

4. - Use a quarantine tank: This is really important. If your tank is healthy and stable the highest risk for a disease is bringing in new fish that you just brought home from the store. Even at the best pet stores fish can get disease so always keep the newly bought fish at a quarantine tank for at least 3 weeks. This goes for other purchases too such as rocks, plants and anything else you introduce to you tank.

5. Compatible fish: It is important to enable the fish to live peacefully if you have one aggressive fish that is attacking another, know that stress leads to disease and attacks can end up in dead fish. Try to buy compatible fish choosing a fish not just for its beauty but for its ability to live with the other fish that you have. Create hiding places for the fish that needs its and if you have no choice try trading the aggressive fish for a more suitable one.

10 Essential Betta Tank Setup Tips

dating tips — Sun, 04 May 2008 05:39:00 +0000

Just like any other pet, you are going to have to do a bit of work to make sure that your new betta will live in comfort. If you are bringing home a new betta fish there are a variety of setup tasks that you will need to do to make sure that your betta will have a healthy tank to call home. The following are some essential tips for setting up the tank for your new betta fish.
Tip #1 - Tanks Size - It is important that you have a tank or bowl that will be large enough for your new betta fish. You want to be sure that when your betta swims around he will not constantly be bumping into the sides and hurting his fins. Make sure that the tank gives enough swimming space and that it has a large enough surface so enough oxygen will be available for your fish.
Tip #2 - Have a Cover for the Tank - Another important setup tip for your tank is that you have a cover for your tank as well. If you do not have a cover, or you fail to put the cover on, your fish may jump out of the tank and either hurt himself or die.
Tip #3 - Treat the Water - It can actually be dangerous to use water straight from the tap for your betta fish; however, using bottled or purified water is not the answer either. The best thing to do is to treat the water from your tap with a product like Amquel or Stress Coat to help get rid of the chlorine in the water. After treating the water it probably should set for almost a week to make sure that all the chemicals have evaporated from the water. Chlorine can actually kill your betta, so be sure that you treat the water first.
Tip #4 - Choose the Right Substrate - It is important that you choose the right substrate for in your tank as well. More than likely you will want some plants in your tank so you want a substrate that is great for both the plants and your fish. While the colored substrate may look great, it is probably a bad idea since the paint can flake off causing problems. Choose a natural color of substrate, and one that will be conducive to both plants and your betta fish. Many times sand is actually a very cheap and excellent choice.
Tip #5 - Choose Appropriate Plants - Plants are a great idea for your fish tank since they can help keep the water cleaner and also provide the tank with more oxygen, but it is important that you choose the right plants for your betta. One of the best plants to use in a betta tank is the Amazon Sword plant; however, you may need to keep this plant trimmed if it starts to take over the tank.
Tip #6 - Tank Temperature - Having your tank at the right temperature is very important for your betta fish as well. Usually the best temperature for your betta fish tank is about 80 F. Any colder than this can be hard on your fish, and too warm can be a problem as well.
Tip #7 - Food for Your Betta - It is important that you also have the right food available for your betta as well. Now it is possible to get betta fish food tablets to feed your fish, but you may want to have some live food to give them as well. It is very important that you do not overfeed your betta fish or it can cause problems in the water or result in your betta overeating, which is not healthy. Try to make sure that your betta gets a well rounded diet to keep him healthy.
Tip #8 - Provide Light - It is also important that you can provide your betta fish with enough light. Both your betta fish and the healthy bacteria will need plenty of light, so you may want to install a light in the tank if you feel they may need more light. Make sure that they get at least eight hours of good light each day. It is also important that you turn out the light at night so your fish can get some sleep as well.
Tip #9 - Tank Placement - If you do not have a light for your aquarium, make sure you place the tank where it will get plenty of light. You also need to make sure that you have an aquarium stand that will take the weight of a full tank as well.
Tip #10 - Avoid Metal Decorations - One important thing to remember when you are setting up a tank for your fish is to avoid metal decorations. Metal can cause serious problems for your betta, so you need to avoid it in your tank. Those metal tank decorations may look great, but they can actually kill your betta, so forget about using them in your tank.

Top 10 Frequently Asked Questions on Betta Fish Explained!

dating tips — Sun, 04 May 2008 05:21:00 +0000

Betta Fish, arguably the most popular type of fish found in the home today across all the world. This astonishing fish displays a vibrant personality whilst posing the most magnificent colour and fin structure helping to create a truly jaw dropping aquarium that you can show off to your guests!
Originating from the paddy fields of Vietnam, Betta are an astounding fish and I will be answering in this article the 10 most popular questions I get asked on a regular basis about Betta Fish. So lets get started...
1. How do you stop Betta Fish from Fighting?
This is probably one of the most popular questions I get asked!
In my experience I've found a few ways that work...
One way is simply to get a bigger tank. With the bigger tank you can include a couple of new plants, bear in mind you don't want to over do it with the plants otherwise you will ruin your fish display (not very appealing to your guests!). By making the tank bigger and introducing a few more plants it creates extra hiding places for your Betta when the aggressive one is on the war path!
A second way is to simply separate the aggressive fish from the rest. This can be done by putting a divider into your tank, or by taking the aggressive fish out and putting it into a new tank. I would personally recommend putting a divider into your tank, size permitting of course, as your Betta will know the other Betta Fish are there. It also helps when it comes to the breeding process because introductions would have already been made.
Thirdly, you must NEVER, I repeat NEVER put a male Betta in with another male Betta Fish, period! Otherwise, they will fight to the death (this is why they are also known as Siamese Fighting Fish!). So by not keeping males together this will reduce fighting astronomically.
Female Betta's have been known to be aggressive and fight between each other, particularly if you have 2 together. However, this is just an "I'm the leader" thing going on between them and usually wears off , but a technique I've used and seen have great success to stop this happening is to add a 3rd female into the tank. By doing this any tension between the previous two is removed - try it, you'll be surprised how effective it is!
2. Can You Keep Male and Female Betta Fish Together?
Yes you can. However, I would recommend keeping a close eye on the male Betta just in case he becomes too aggressive and the female needs to be removed. As I mentioned above having plants in the tank can help the female hide if the male becomes aggressive.
3. How Do You Tell the Difference Between a Male and Female Betta Fish?
I always remember the saying "It's easy when you know how..." when I get asked this question because when I first started breeding Betta Fish it took me ages to recognise the difference between a male and a female...
You will tend to find that female Betta's have fat bellies where as males tend to have a more streamlined structure. Also, you will find that males have a longer body and fins whereas the females are shorter in body size and fin length.
Also, male Betta Fish tend to have more colour and longer pointed anal fins compared to their female counterparts (sorry ladies!). You will also find female anal fins are more level to their body. The anal fin is the rigid looking fin coming from the bottom of the Betta Fish.
However, one giveaway of a female is her white spot on the underside of her belly. This white spot is called the ovipositor and is used during the breeding process.
4. What are the Best Caring Tips for Betta Fish?
Lots of people have written books on the subject of caring for Betta Fish but I'm going to give you my best tips that I've picked up along the way...
- Test your water's acidity level regularly. A PH level of 7 works best in my experience.
- Always try and keep the water temperature at around 75-80 Fahrenheit. I would recommend testing this regularly using a floating thermometer because big drops in water temperature can cause stress on your fish. Floating thermometers in my experience give the best accuracy reading because they are kept in the tank water.
- Always keep a lid/cover over the top of your tank with air holes in it because Betta Fish can jump and you might not be there to catch them!
- Any filtration system should be kept at a low level and you must take care not to put the air intake in such a position that it could cause your Betta to get hurt. Having your filter system at a high setting has been known to cause stress to your Betta.
- Try and clean your tank regularly, ideally twice a week. Remove bits of food caught under the stones, castles or leaves of your tank.
- As a rule of thumb I recommend 3 quarters of a gallon per Betta fish in your tank. Also, try and get a spacious tank to allow your Betta plenty of room to show off their personality, you'll be surprised some are very exciting to watch!
I've always found if you love your Betta like you love your own then you won't go far wrong, and with implementing the above you will be well on your way to having truly astonishing Betta Fish.
5. What should I feed my Betta Fish?
Surprisingly, Betta Fish are known to be fussy eaters (and you thought us humans were bad!). So it is best to feed them on a variety of foods, such as:
- Brine shrimp - Daphnia - Frozen Bloodworms - Blackworms (Tubifex) worms - Combination Betta Pellets from Pet Shops - Powder Fish Food if feeding Fry - Vegetables (such as green beans, not a whole one but in tiny portions)
I tend to find a regular feeding pattern of 2-3 times a day works best for Betta. Try as well to make portions eaten in one sitting otherwise any leftover food could lead to additional bacteria in the tank potentially causing disease for your Betta Fish.
6. What are Betta Fish also Known as?
Not a lot of people know this but Betta Fish are also known as Siamese Fighting Fish. The name originates because of the males aggressiveness and their "Fight to the Death" attitude if two males are put in the same tank together.
Betta fish are often referred to as Betta Splendens but this is a type of breed of Betta, which leads us nicely onto the next question...
7. What are the Different Types of Betta Fish Available?
There are many types of Betta Fish available, the most popular types I've listed below:
- Betta Splendens (the most common type) - Betta Bellica - Betta Coccina - Betta Picta
Some of the most popular Tail Types of Betta are:
- Veil Tail (this generally the most common tail type that you find at the pet stores)
- Delta Fish (normally any fish under the 180 degree tail span is considered a Delta)
- Super Delta Fish (normally any Betta with a tail span of 120-180 degrees)
- Fan Tail (the Betta's tail displays a smoothly rounded edge)
- Half Moon (as it's name suggest it's tail is the shape of a half moon - a 180 degrees span, this is the fish most breeders strive to achieve and display a truly fabulous colour!)
- Pin (Spade) Tail (the Betta's tail is pointed at the end)
Depending on what you are looking for this should hopefully give you enough information to choose a Betta fish at the pet store! ;-)
8. Can I Put Bamboo in With My Betta Fish?
Bamboo or Lucky Bamboo as it is also known, the type that is sold from pet stores, can be put into your tank with your Betta Fish. The bamboo can make your tank look more attractive and appealing to your guests, which is always a bonus!
However, what I recommend is that the bamboo is washed thoroughly before entry into the tank to help ensure there are no chemicals on it that could hurt your Betta. Also, it is a good idea to check the bamboo regularly just to see if it is rotting because it could release bacteria into your tank's water that could potentially harm your Betta fish. Changing your tank's water often will reduce the threat of bacteria happening.
9. What Ammonia Level Should My Tank be at?
Ideally, you want an ammonia level between 0-0.5. By changing your water regularly (about 30-50% twice a week, if you have high ammonia) this will help reduce the ammonia in your tank.
It is a good idea to monitor ammonia levels on a regular basis, because a high level is not healthy for your Betta Fish.
10. Would a Father Betta Harm His Children?
Unfortunately, a male (Father) Betta would harm his children (Fry). Although, the Father is very protective of the Fry during the spawning process it is common for them to attack the Fry as they become bigger and able to look after themselves.
I recommend removing the Father from the tank once the Fry are able to swim freely, usually 7-10 days after birth because he can become very aggressive towards them and potentially cause them harm.
That's the answers to the 10 most asked questions I get on a regular basis. I hope you found this information useful and are able to put it to good effect.

Betta Fish Shows

dating tips — Sun, 04 May 2008 04:32:00 +0000

Small wild Betta fish still swim in the rice paddy channels of Southeast Asia, protecting their bubble nests from all interlopers. Though lively, the Betta fish are far removed from their familial relatives, normally called Siamese fighting fish.
Wild Betta fishes will fight to protect their area but they are street fighters in comparison to the Sweet Pea Whitakers of the pet trade i.e. the familial Betta fishes. The wild Betta fishes are not so much colorful as the familial Betta fishes nor are their fins as long and as attractive as their familial counterparts. However the genes are certainly there. When a Betta fish - untamed or tame - meet another Betta fish, they both act in response impulsively. The color of their body becomes dark noticeably, as if flushed in irritation, and their straggling fins flash open and sit up, erect like a fan prepared to fight the summer heat.
For centuries in Asia the little fish were breed in internment only for their fierceness and combating aptitude. The fish were paired off by their possessor to fight, many a times to the death, to a large extent like a cock fight.
Now a days fighting is not authorized or excused by the International Betta Congress. As an alternative Betta fish breeders breed their fish to improve their beauty, taking benefit of the physical uniqueness of violent behavior.
Over the years the betta fish has been bred for more and more attractive color differences and longer more good-looking and striking flowing fins. Betta fishes are found in different colors like yellow, blue, green, red, black and turquoise. Many a times they also are bi-colored and they come with a pale sparkling look as if they had been covered with mother of pearl. At betta shows, there are 48 various color groups in which you can select anyone to fight.
Possessors take benefit of the fish's fighting nature to boast their colors and fins at their best for betta show adjudicators. The fish are publicized independently in small glass bowls and are disallowed to view the fish in neighboring bowls by pieces of card stock. When the adjudicators come around, the card stock is raised and the Bettas look each other from the glass. Their colors turn out to be vivacious and their fins get higher and spread like fighters cocking their fists. The fishes are judged by the adjudicators on clarity and limpidness of color, unusual and astonishing finnage, posture and deportment. Here deportment is not behavior. It's how nicely the fish swims and how attentive it is.
That's what a Betta show is all about - just raising those pieces of card stocks and the rest is done by the betta fishes.
Betta fishes generally costs more than $150. Even though Betta breeders would like to get back their operating cost, they know better than to think they will make a lot of money from their fish. The breeders mainly do it for the contentment of breeding the Betta fishes and not for earning more profit.
Bottled water doesn't provide the best possible environment for your Betta fish. Actually most of the bottled waters available in market don't have the essential minerals needed for the healthy environment of the fish. Also these bottled waters may contain some chemicals which could be injurious for the fish. Similarly, you should never make use of purified water or water that has been "distilled" by any procedure.
The real best water for your Betta fish is just simple tap water. You can also use spring water but you must remove the harmful chemicals present in it by following the procedure mentioned below:
1. Most of the time a very harmful chemical known as chloramines are present in water which may kill your Betta fish. To remove this harmful chemical from water you have to purchase AmQuel. AmQuel is very easily obtainable at pet stores. 2. You can also get a 'stress coat' from your nearby local pet shop. It is also one of the best products for your betta fish.
3. Now as you've treated the water as per the above directions, it requires to "age" which will permit all of the chemicals and gasses to disappear, and also for the pH in the water to standardize. To let the chemicals evaporate, just put the treated water in an open container for a week.

Betta Fish Explained

Tim — Sun, 03 Jun 2007 07:41:00 +0000

Top 10 Frequently Asked Questions on Betta Fish Explained! by Simon Anderson

Betta Fish, arguably the most popular type of fish found in the home today across all the world. This astonishing fish displays a vibrant personality whilst posing the most magnificent colour and fin structure helping to create a truly jaw dropping aquarium that you can show off to your guests!

Originating from the paddy fields of Vietnam, Betta are an astounding fish and I will be answering in this article the 10 most popular questions I get asked on a regular basis about Betta Fish. So lets get started...

1. How do you stop Betta Fish from Fighting?

This is probably one of the most popular questions I get asked!

In my experience I've found a few ways that work...

One way is simply to get a bigger tank. With the bigger tank you can include a couple of new plants, bear in mind you don't want to over do it with the plants otherwise you will ruin your fish display (not very appealing to your guests!). By making the tank bigger and introducing a few more plants it creates extra hiding places for your Betta when the aggressive one is on the war path!

A second way is to simply separate the aggressive fish from the rest. This can be done by putting a divider into your tank, or by taking the aggressive fish out and putting it into a new tank. I would personally recommend putting a divider into your tank, size permitting of course, as your Betta will know the other Betta Fish are there. It also helps when it comes to the breeding process because introductions would have already been made.

Thirdly, you must NEVER, I repeat NEVER put a male Betta in with another male Betta Fish, period! Otherwise, they will fight to the death (this is why they are also known as Siamese Fighting Fish!). So by not keeping males together this will reduce fighting astronomically.

Female Betta's have been known to be aggressive and fight between each other, particularly if you have 2 together. However, this is just an "I'm the leader" thing going on between them and usually wears off , but a technique I've used and seen have great success to stop this happening is to add a 3rd female into the tank. By doing this any tension between the previous two is removed - try it, you'll be surprised how effective it is!

2. Can You Keep Male and Female Betta Fish Together?

Yes you can. However, I would recommend keeping a close eye on the male Betta just in case he becomes too aggressive and the female needs to be removed. As I mentioned above having plants in the tank can help the female hide if the male becomes aggressive.

3. How Do You Tell the Difference Between a Male and Female Betta Fish?

I always remember the saying "It's easy when you know how..." when I get asked this question because when I first started breeding Betta Fish it took me ages to recognise the difference between a male and a female...

You will tend to find that female Betta's have fat bellies where as males tend to have a more streamlined structure. Also, you will find that males have a longer body and fins whereas the females are shorter in body size and fin length.

Also, male Betta Fish tend to have more colour and longer pointed anal fins compared to their female counterparts (sorry ladies!). You will also find female anal fins are more level to their body. The anal fin is the rigid looking fin coming from the bottom of the Betta Fish.

However, one giveaway of a female is her white spot on the underside of her belly. This white spot is called the ovipositor and is used during the breeding process.

4. What are the Best Caring Tips for Betta Fish?

Lots of people have written books on the subject of caring for Betta Fish but I'm going to give you my best tips that I've picked up along the way...

- Test your water's acidity level regularly. A PH level of 7 works best in my experience.

- Always try and keep the water temperature at around 75-80 Fahrenheit. I would recommend testing this regularly using a floating thermometer because big drops in water temperature can cause stress on your fish. Floating thermometers in my experience give the best accuracy reading because they are kept in the tank water.

- Always keep a lid/cover over the top of your tank with air holes in it because Betta Fish can jump and you might not be there to catch them!

- Any filtration system should be kept at a low level and you must take care not to put the air intake in such a position that it could cause your Betta to get hurt. Having your filter system at a high setting has been known to cause stress to your Betta.

- Try and clean your tank regularly, ideally twice a week. Remove bits of food caught under the stones, castles or leaves of your tank.

- As a rule of thumb I recommend 3 quarters of a gallon per Betta fish in your tank. Also, try and get a spacious tank to allow your Betta plenty of room to show off their personality, you'll be surprised some are very exciting to watch!

I've always found if you love your Betta like you love your own then you won't go far wrong, and with implementing the above you will be well on your way to having truly astonishing Betta Fish.

5. What should I feed my Betta Fish?

Surprisingly, Betta Fish are known to be fussy eaters (and you thought us humans were bad!). So it is best to feed them on a variety of foods, such as:

- Brine shrimp - Daphnia - Frozen Bloodworms - Blackworms (Tubifex) worms - Combination Betta Pellets from Pet Shops - Powder Fish Food if feeding Fry - Vegetables (such as green beans, not a whole one but in tiny portions)

I tend to find a regular feeding pattern of 2-3 times a day works best for Betta. Try as well to make portions eaten in one sitting otherwise any leftover food could lead to additional bacteria in the tank potentially causing disease for your Betta Fish.

6. What are Betta Fish also Known as?

Not a lot of people know this but Betta Fish are also known as Siamese Fighting Fish. The name originates because of the males aggressiveness and their "Fight to the Death" attitude if two males are put in the same tank together.

Betta fish are often referred to as Betta Splendens but this is a type of breed of Betta, which leads us nicely onto the next question...

7. What are the Different Types of Betta Fish Available?

There are many types of Betta Fish available, the most popular types I've listed below:

- Betta Splendens (the most common type) - Betta Bellica - Betta Coccina - Betta Picta

Some of the most popular Tail Types of Betta are:

- Veil Tail (this generally the most common tail type that you find at the pet stores)

- Delta Fish (normally any fish under the 180 degree tail span is considered a Delta)

- Super Delta Fish (normally any Betta with a tail span of 120-180 degrees)

- Fan Tail (the Betta's tail displays a smoothly rounded edge)

- Half Moon (as it's name suggest it's tail is the shape of a half moon - a 180 degrees span, this is the fish most breeders strive to achieve and display a truly fabulous colour!)

- Pin (Spade) Tail (the Betta's tail is pointed at the end)

Depending on what you are looking for this should hopefully give you enough information to choose a Betta fish at the pet store! ;-)

8. Can I Put Bamboo in With My Betta Fish?

Bamboo or Lucky Bamboo as it is also known, the type that is sold from pet stores, can be put into your tank with your Betta Fish. The bamboo can make your tank look more attractive and appealing to your guests, which is always a bonus!

However, what I recommend is that the bamboo is washed thoroughly before entry into the tank to help ensure there are no chemicals on it that could hurt your Betta. Also, it is a good idea to check the bamboo regularly just to see if it is rotting because it could release bacteria into your tank's water that could potentially harm your Betta fish. Changing your tank's water often will reduce the threat of bacteria happening.

9. What Ammonia Level Should My Tank be at?

Ideally, you want an ammonia level between 0-0.5. By changing your water regularly (about 30-50% twice a week, if you have high ammonia) this will help reduce the ammonia in your tank.

It is a good idea to monitor ammonia levels on a regular basis, because a high level is not healthy for your Betta Fish.

10. Would a Father Betta Harm His Children?

Unfortunately, a male (Father) Betta would harm his children (Fry). Although, the Father is very protective of the Fry during the spawning process it is common for them to attack the Fry as they become bigger and able to look after themselves.

I recommend removing the Father from the tank once the Fry are able to swim freely, usually 7-10 days after birth because he can become very aggressive towards them and potentially cause them harm.

That's the answers to the 10 most asked questions I get on a regular basis. I hope you found this information useful and are able to put it to good effect.

About the Author
Simon Anderson is a recognized Betta Fish Expert and has researched 37 different breeding and caring programs for Betta Fish on the Web! The best 3 he found are revealed along with his jealously guarded secrets on how to breed Astonishing Betta Fish at http://www.BettaFishSpecialist.com

For Other Tips On Aquarium Care or Tropical Fish Care (Click Here)

Tropical Fish – Algae Eaters

John — Sat, 08 Apr 2006 16:36:00 +0000

What algae eaters are for sale?

Most omnivorous fishes will eat some algae, with cichlids and livebearers being particularly happy to graze on algae if nothing else is on offer. However, only a few species of fish and invertebrate are sold primarily as algae eaters. Catfish from the family Loricariidae, known colloquially as "plecs", are perhaps the best-known of these.

Loricariidae

Otocinclus -- Sometimes called "ottos". Typically 3-4 cm long, usually black or mottled grey. Being small, they are often recommended for small aquaria; however, they are very delicate, particularly when newly imported, and will not survive long in immature aquaria. They need stable water conditions, lots of oyxgen, and a mixed diet including algae, soft vegetables (such as slices of cucumber), and bloodworms.

Peckoltia -- Occasionally sold as "clown plecs" but more often under their Latin name. From 5 to 10 cm long depending on the species. Some species are nicely patterned while others are rather drab. Not particularly delicate, once they are feeding, so for inexperienced aquarists these are a better choice for small tanks than Otocinclus. Feeds primarily on green algae, but will also take soft vegetables.

Ancistrus -- The popular bristlenose plec. Grows to around 8-10 cm. Widely sold, inexpensive, hardy, and long-lived (7 years no uncommon) these are very good fish for beginners. Will eat algae as well as general aquarium foods such as bloodworms, mussel, catfish pellets, etc. The most common species, Ancistrus dolichopterus is not particularly attractive, but the bristles on the males certainly make them interesting to look at.

Hypostomus, Liposarcus, Pterygoblichthys -- These are the common plecs. While many aquarium books will cite Hypostomus plecostomus as the common plec, this species is hardly ever imported any more, and the species you are most likely to see is in fact Liposarcus pardalis. Exact identification of the fish doesn't matter. All these are big catfish (30+ cm) that tend to be territorial towards one another but harmless towards other fish. They are hardy, and as juveniles will eat algae. As they mature, they become less effective, if only because they cannot perch on plant leaves or crawl into small spaces to get at the algae there. Besides algae, they also need soft vegetables and some meaty foods such as prawns, bloodworms, or mussels.

There are lots of other loricariid catfish sold, including species of Chaetostoma ("bulldog plecs"), Farlowella ("twig catfish"), and Panaque ("royal plecs"), but these fish tend to be more demanding and/or less effective algae eaters.

Hillstream Loaches

Hillstream loaches, family Homalopteridae, are an obscure group related to the carps and loaches, despite a superficial resemblance to the plecs. They are algae eaters, and most are rather small, around 5 cm in length, so could make good aquarium fish. However, they are delicate, and need water that is subtropical (i.e., 18-22 C), well oxygenated, and completely free of nitrite and ammonium. In other words, these are fishes for a mature, specialised tank rather than a beginner's community aquarium.

Several genera are traded, including Homaloptera, Gastromyzon, and Pseudogastromyzon. These go by a variety of names, including "butterfly loaches", "Hong Kong Plecos", and "Borneo suckerfish". They have a relatively consistent appearance. The pectoral and pelvic fins are expanded to produce a wide sucker with which they stick onto rocks or glass. Many species are attractively patterned.

Sucking Loaches and Garra spp.

The sucking loach, or Chinese algae eater, Gyrinicheilus aymoneri is a fish best avoided. While cheap, hardy, and not unattractive, it is a giant fish by aquarium standards (easily reaching 20-30 cm) with a mean attitude to boot. While possibly useful alongside large cichlids or catfish, it simply cannot be housed in a regular community tank.

Garra spp. could easily be mistaken for small sucking loaches. There are variety of species, some tropical, other subtropical, but all need clean, well oxygenated water. Garra taeniata, for example, is a true tropical while Garra pingu needs cool water. Check with your retailer before purchasing, and if in doubt, get the Latin name and do a Google search or visit Fishbase to find out if the species on sale is right for your tank. Garra spp. typically grow to around 10-12 cm and are quite peaceful. They are good algae eaters.

Sharks and Foxes

These are a mixed bag. The Siamese Algae Eater, Crossocheilus siamensis (sometimes Epalzeorhynchus siamensis) is a first-rate algae eater that will work well in most aquaria. It is territorial towards its own kind unless kept in large groups, but is otherwise fairly peaceful. The Flying Fox, Epalzeorhynchus kalopterus is almost as good but tends to be more aggressive and should be kept singly and with tankmates able to swim away from trouble. Red-tailed and ruby sharks, on the other hand, are indifferent algae eaters. While they certainly make good pets for other reasons, they shouldn't be bought as algae eaters.

Mollies and other fish

Often overlooked, mollies can make excellent algae eaters in the right tank. They will peck away at algae on fine leaves that catfish and the other, more benthic fish leave behind. However, they do need hard, alkaline water, ideally with a little salt added. While livebearers and some other kinds of freshwater fishes do well in slightly salty water, most do not. Mollies are therefore best kept only in tanks where adding salt is possible.

Other fishes that will also eat a significant amount of algae include: platies, Florida flagfish (Jordanella floridae), barbs, scats, violet gobies (Gobiodes spp.), and the herbivorous "mbuna" cichlids. While not commonly kept as algae eaters per se these fish do appreciate some algae in their diet.

Invertebrates

Shrimps have been in vogue as algae eaters for some time now, with at least one species being known as Amano shrimps after the aquarist who first popularised them. However, while shrimps can make good algae eaters, they are not without problems. They are small, for a start, typically around 1.5 to 3 cm in length, and substantially larger fish will simply view them as live food. They are also rather delicate, and need excellent water quality. They do not do well in very soft, acid water. Finally, being rather small, you need a lot of them to see much impact in large aquaria.

Snails are the other invertebrate sold as algae eaters. Most will eat a great deal of algae, particular from the glass, but some species will also eat plants as well. Apple snails and Colombian ramshorns are notorious for this. Nerite snails (e.g., olive snails) are more trustworthy, but they need brackish, not freshwater, to do well long-term. Malayan livebearer snails are excellent for cleaning the substrate, and will eat some algae, but because they breed very quickly, many aquarists do not like having them in their aquaria. Nonetheless, if you want a snail that is adaptable and does no damage to living plants or fish, then the Malayan livebearer is probably your best bet.

Will these fish beat algae?

In a word, no.

What! But they're algae eaters, aren't they?

Algae is a characteristic of unbalanced aquaria. Over time, the waste produced by the fishes in the tank are turned into nitrate and phosphate by the biological filter. Nitrate and phosphate are fertilisers, and the more of these chemicals in the water, the easier it is for the algae to 'bloom'. Therefore, the more fish you add to a tank, the more nitrate and phosphate, and thus the quicker the algae can grow. It doesn't matter if the fishes are algae eaters or not, simply putting them in the tank makes life easier for the algae.

There are two ways to solve this problem. The first is to carry out frequent water changes and thus keep the nitrate and phosphate levels as low as possible.

The other (and easier) approach is to use plants.

Using plants to stop algae

George has written a great introduction to this topic here:

Algae in the Planted Aquarium

My own 180 litre aquarium is quite heavily stocked (including, a 15 cm Panaque, 9 glassfish, 17 cardinals, 6 halfbeaks, 3 dwarf upside-down cats, a pufferfish, etc.) and at times the nitrates go as high as 100 mg/l. But I have hardly any algae, and the only place hair algae appears is on dead leaves floating at the top. The glass is cleaned perhaps once every 2 months, and there's not a trace of the blue-green algae you might expect in a tank with high nitrates.

What's the secret? Lots of plants. I'm cutting back Cabomba and scooping off Salvinia every week, sometimes twice a week. These rapidly growing plants simply put the algae out of business. I should note my system isn't complex or expensive: two 30 W Triton tubes, reflectors, and a bit of pond soil in the substrate are the only concessions to plant growth. There's no laterite, or CO2 fertilisation, or high-output lights.

Summary

Adding fish, any fish, improves the conditions in the tank for algae, so algae eaters are counterproductive if used as your sole method of algae control. Instead, you need to balance the tank by adding live plants. These will stop the algae growing in the first place, resulting in a tank that needs much less looking after and is a healthier place for your fishes to live.

- Tropic Fish