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101 Best Aquarium Plants book

Hermes — Sun, 27 Sep 2009 05:00:00 +0000

The 101 Best Aquarium Plants: How to Choose Hardy, Vibrant, Eye-Catching Species That Will Thrive in Your Home Aquarium
by Mary E. Sweeney (Author), George Farmer (Photographer), Neil Hepworth (Photographer), Aaron Norman (Photographer), Jeff Ucciardo (Photographer)

TFH Publications (2008)

http://www.amazon.com/101-Best-Aquarium-Plants-Eye-Catching/dp/189008719X/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1229257106&sr=1-4#

Congo Tetra

Yu-Jin Lim — Sat, 03 May 2008 12:25:00 +0000

Data Sheet		Congo Tetra. Love the red color.
Scientific Name:	Phenacogrammus (Micralestes) interruptus
Other Name:	Congo Tetra,
Family:	Characidae
Origin:	Congo, Africa
Adult Size:	8cm- 10 cm (3 to 4 inches) for males. around 6cm-7cm for females (2.3 inches)
Social:	Very Good. Peaceful fish
Lifespan:	5 years
Tank Level:	All (generally middle layers).	A Congo Tetra with yellow coloration
Minimum Tank Size:	60 gallons, but bigger tank is recommended
Diet:	Cheerfully eats almost any food you care to feed it.
Breeding:	Egg Layer - tends to scatter eggs on the gravel.
Care:	Easy
Ideal pH:	6 - 7
Temperature:	24-27 C (74-81 F)
Tank setup:	Have lots of free swimming spaces for this fish as it is a strong swimmer.
Sexing:	Males are bigger and tend to be flashier

Healthy Specimen of Congo Tetra

Another awesome male.

Congo Tetras looks their best in groups.A blue color congo tetra

Description:

Congo Tetra appears to be a rather drab, gray to silvery fish with a copper to reddish-brown band from the gill cover to the adipose fin. However, when light strikes their large opalescent scales, various color are refracted from the scales, though yellows, greens and blues predominate.

Congo Tetra has feathery extensions that grow from the trailing edge of the caudal fin (tail). These extensions are well-developed in males and tends to become more elaborate as the fish matures. The dorsal fin of the male is very long and may extend as far as the end of the tail in some individuals. The dorsal, pelvic, anal and caudal fins are all generally light gray in color with milky white edges.

Author's Note: This is un-doubtablely one of the most beautiful fish I have ever encountered, and any available stock in the local aquarium are quickly snapped up.

Habitat/Care:

The Congo Tetra is an open-water, schooling fish that is found in the rivers and lakes of the Congo River basin.

Congo tetras are shoaling fish and should always be kept in a group of at least six. Males develop better colouration when kept in a group containing a number of female fish to display to. These fishes are excellent jumpers, and aquarium owners should consider a lid to prevent them from jumping out of the aquarium.

The Congo tetra is sensitive to poor water quality> and frequent water changes are very important. Good water circulation in the aquarium is also necessary.

Mixing with other fishes:

Congo tetras are very peaceful and can be mixed with most community fish. However, large specimens may eat frys and smaller fishes, and sometimes nibble soft plants. Take care not to introduce potentially nippy fishes, like Tiger barbs or Red-eyed tetras, as these may bite the flowing fins of the males.

Diet:

In the wild, Congo Tetra is primarily insectivorous, but will also feed on plants occasionally. In an aquarium, Congo Terta accepts most aquarium foods, but benefits from good quality flake food containing colour enhancers. To ensure that these fish look their best, their diet should be supplement by additional food such as bloodworm, daphnia and brine shrimp.

Breeding:

Breeding Congo Tetras generally requires a large, well-lighted tank with plenty of swimming space that is at least partially planted. Goe Gallon noted that the ideal water should be soft and slightly on the acid side, and that filtration through peat may be beneficial to encourage spawning. He also noted that spawning temperature is best between 25-27 degree C (75 - 77 degrees F). Prior to breeding, a pair of Congo Tetra should be ideally conditioned beforehand with ample feedings of live or frozen foods.

During mating, the male will actively pursue the ripe female until between 300 - 500 eggs are laid, generally in or around plants. These eggs are only weakly adhesive and it is common for most of the eggs to sink to the bottom. At this point, it is recommended to remove the parents once the eggs are laid as the adults may eat the eggs or new frys. The eggs should hatch after an incubation period of approximately 5 - 7 days.

Photo Galley

Got a photo? Contact me.

References Cited:

1. Animal World - Congo Tetra [Online] Available, Accessed 3 May 2008, http://animal-world.com/encyclo/fresh/characins/CongoTetra.php
2. Congo tetra, Phenacogrammus interruptus, [Online]
Available, Accessed 3 May 2008, http://www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk/pfk/pages/show_article.php?article_id=270
3. Congo Tetra By Joe Gallon, [Online], Available, Accessed 3 May 2008 http://www.aquarticles.com/articles/breeding/Gallo_Congo_Tetra.html

Sexing the Clown Loaches

Yu-Jin Lim — Tue, 08 Apr 2008 09:04:00 +0000

Mitchell McKenzie from Pintius has discovered a new and novel way to sex the clown loaches. Below is the some of the information as provided by him. Many thanks to Mictchell for sharing this exciting development with the community.
________________________________________________________________

Many species, mainly cyprinids, display not only colour changes (sexual dichromatism) during the breeding season but also physical (sexual dimorphism) or anatomical changes. Clown loaches seems to exhibits breeding tubercles during the breeding season. The males form little lumps on their head which are normally only visible when you take a picture of the specimen and zoom in. This was the case for the following male clown loach -

A casual observer might think - ''its ich', but if you look closely, the little dots are on the head only. These are breeding tubercles, found only in males, never females.

Scientific Experiment:

The specimen shown is a relatively small chap, who was given levomidizole because of the transportation trip. It is now approximately 7 inches. Normally, this size does not mean sexual maturity. However this little chap most definitely is mature based on the following findings*.

1. Extraction of tubercle from male using ELIZA will reveal moderate levels of testosterone. This is an obvious male hormone which will only be present in males

2. The specimen has an adequate levels of testosterone. Since testosterone is a hormone which is present largest in males rather than females and male sexual maturity is a measure of testosterone levels, a fish that secrete any measurable levels of testosterone into the surrounding waters would be sufficient to indicate maturity. #

As a test, a sample was taken from one of the tubercles to prove that the testosterone was coming from the specific individual. Taking a sample from the water would be just as good. To conclude that the specimen in question is a male, any of the male hormones*, not just testosterone would has to be present. A false positive would be given if there are other males of different species present. So ideally for the test, specimen should be isolated in water. Similarly, progesterone and estrogen would be present in female subjects.

* Collectively known as androgens, the male hormones also include dihydrotestosterone, and interstitial cell stimulating hormone, both would also be present in samples containing males.

Based on the test results, the author concluded that the presence of tubercles is good enough evidence that the specimen in question is a male.

All photos are copyright and given permission to republish by Mitchell McKenzie (Pintius). Please contact him at pintius5@aol.com
should you desire to reproduce the image at your site.

How To Acclimitise New Corals And Fish Correctly

Tim — Mon, 13 Aug 2007 23:11:00 +0000

by Peter Cunningham

It always amazes me how many people I see or talk to who purchase a marine animal, take it home, open the bag and pour it into their aquarium. I can never understand why some people do not acclimitise their purchases properly, it could be laziness, lack of knowledge, impatience etc but one thing is for certain life is on the line here so it must be done correctly.

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For Other Tips On Aquarium Care or Tropical Fish Care (Click Here)
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The purpose of acclimatisation is simple - the water that the animal is packaged in may have a different temperature, pH and salinity than that of your aquarium. Aquatic life (especially corals and invertebrates) are very sensitive to minor changes in water parameters therefore acclimatisation is a definate requirement for success.

There are two ways which are recommended to acclimatise your new purchase to your aquarium. Neither of these should be rushed and both should be performed with the aquarium lights off. The lights should also remain off for a further 6 to 12 hours after the animal has been introduced to the quarantine tank, or the main display tank, whichever you are using.

The Drip Method

The drip method of acclimatisation is normally used for more sensitive inhabitants, however more and more fish keepers are using this method for all livestock.

Before you commence with this method ensure that the lights on your aquarium are turned off. Also ensure that the lights in the room where you will be unpacking the fish are also turned down to a minimum. Bright lights will cause excessive stress to the fish.

Float the bag whilst it is still sealed in the aquarium for a minimum of 15 minutes. Do not open the bag at this stage. This allows the water in the bag to slowly adjust to the temperature of your aquarium.

Remove the bag from the aquarium and very carefully empty the contents of the bag into a marine safe receptacle (do not use too big a receptacle). Ensure that the animal is fully submerged. If the animal is an invertebrate do not allow it to come into contact with the air - they must remain submerged at all times.

You will need to use some airline so that you can set up a drip line from your main aquarium to the receptacle.

In your aquarium secure the airline tubing so that it cannot fall out. On the other end (the end which is in the receptacle) add an airline control valve (this will allow you to regulate the flow of water).

With the tubing in your aquarium submerged and the other end in the bucket start the siphon by gently sucking on the airline tube. This will start the siphon and water will start to pass from your main aquarium to the bucket. As soon as water begins to flow adjust the valve so that you are getting between 2 to 5 drops per second.

Now wait until the water in the receptacle doubles the initial amount, pause the siphon using the control valve, discard half of the water from the receptacle and start the siphon again using the control valve.

Wait until the water doubles again and then stop or break the siphon. You are now ready to introduce your animal to the aquarium.

If the animal is a fish then capture the fish using a proper aquatic net and release into the aquarium.

If the animal is a coral then you can simply lift it out of the receptacle and place it into the aquarium.

If the animal is an invertebrate then you will need to capture it under water and keep it under water until it is introduced into the aquarium. Try to retain as little as possible of the receptacle water when doing the transfer.

Discard the water from the receptacle - never introduce the water into your aquarium (apart from that necessary for invertebrates).

Leave the aquarium lights off for at least 6 - 12 hours after the introduction.

The Floating Bag Method

Before you commence ensure that the lights on your aquarium are turned off. Also ensure that the lights in the room where you will be unpacking the animal are turned down to a minimum. Bright lights will cause excessive stress to the animal.

Float the bag whilst it is still sealed in the aquarium for a minimum of 15 minutes. Do not open the bag at this stage. This allows the water in the bag to slowly adjust to the temperature of your aquarium.

Once a minimum of 15 minutes has passed open the bag as near to the top as possible and either attach this to the side of the aquarium, or create an air pocket in the top of the bag so that the bag will float.

Once the bag is open add half an egg cup of your aquarium water to the bag and wait 5 to 10 minutes.

After 5 to 10 minutes again add half an egg cup of your aquarium water to the bag and wait another 5 to 10 minutes.

Continue with this process until the bag is full.

Once the bag is full remove the bag from the water and discard at least half of the water from the bag.

Re-float the bag in the water and repeat the steps of adding half an egg cup of your aquarium water to the bag again until the bag is full (Remember to wait 5 to 10 minutes between each water addition)

Once the bag is full capture the fish using a proper aquatic net and release into the aquarium. Corals can be removed from the bag and placed in the aquarium. When some corals are touched they could produce a great deal of slime - this is nothing to worry about and is perfectly normal. However do not introduce any of the water into the aquarium. Invertebrates need to be released into the aquarium under the water. You should never allow them to be out of the water in air. To release invertebrates lower the bag into the aquarium and tease the animal out of the bag. Some of the water will escape into the aquarium, however attempt to keep this to a minimum.

Discard the water in the shipping bag - never introduce the water from the shipping bag into your aquarium.

Leave the aquarium lights off for at least 6 - 12 hours after the introduction to allow your new purchases to become acclimitised to their new home.

So there you go - 2 ways to properly introduce your fish, corals etc into your aquarium. It's not hard, it just takes patience. Remember that it is very important to be patient. The acclimatisation period should take as long as needed.

Give you fish, corals and inverts the best possible chance of survival from the outset but acclimitising them correctly.

For Other Tips On Aquarium Care or Tropical Fish Care (Click Here)

About the Author
Peter Cunningham and John Cunningham combined have been keeping salt water aquarium's for nearly 35 years. Visit their site 'Aquarists Online' if you are interested in the saltwater aquarium hobby.

Betta Fish Explained

Tim — Sun, 03 Jun 2007 07:41:00 +0000

Top 10 Frequently Asked Questions on Betta Fish Explained! by Simon Anderson

Betta Fish, arguably the most popular type of fish found in the home today across all the world. This astonishing fish displays a vibrant personality whilst posing the most magnificent colour and fin structure helping to create a truly jaw dropping aquarium that you can show off to your guests!

Originating from the paddy fields of Vietnam, Betta are an astounding fish and I will be answering in this article the 10 most popular questions I get asked on a regular basis about Betta Fish. So lets get started...

1. How do you stop Betta Fish from Fighting?

This is probably one of the most popular questions I get asked!

In my experience I've found a few ways that work...

One way is simply to get a bigger tank. With the bigger tank you can include a couple of new plants, bear in mind you don't want to over do it with the plants otherwise you will ruin your fish display (not very appealing to your guests!). By making the tank bigger and introducing a few more plants it creates extra hiding places for your Betta when the aggressive one is on the war path!

A second way is to simply separate the aggressive fish from the rest. This can be done by putting a divider into your tank, or by taking the aggressive fish out and putting it into a new tank. I would personally recommend putting a divider into your tank, size permitting of course, as your Betta will know the other Betta Fish are there. It also helps when it comes to the breeding process because introductions would have already been made.

Thirdly, you must NEVER, I repeat NEVER put a male Betta in with another male Betta Fish, period! Otherwise, they will fight to the death (this is why they are also known as Siamese Fighting Fish!). So by not keeping males together this will reduce fighting astronomically.

Female Betta's have been known to be aggressive and fight between each other, particularly if you have 2 together. However, this is just an "I'm the leader" thing going on between them and usually wears off , but a technique I've used and seen have great success to stop this happening is to add a 3rd female into the tank. By doing this any tension between the previous two is removed - try it, you'll be surprised how effective it is!

2. Can You Keep Male and Female Betta Fish Together?

Yes you can. However, I would recommend keeping a close eye on the male Betta just in case he becomes too aggressive and the female needs to be removed. As I mentioned above having plants in the tank can help the female hide if the male becomes aggressive.

3. How Do You Tell the Difference Between a Male and Female Betta Fish?

I always remember the saying "It's easy when you know how..." when I get asked this question because when I first started breeding Betta Fish it took me ages to recognise the difference between a male and a female...

You will tend to find that female Betta's have fat bellies where as males tend to have a more streamlined structure. Also, you will find that males have a longer body and fins whereas the females are shorter in body size and fin length.

Also, male Betta Fish tend to have more colour and longer pointed anal fins compared to their female counterparts (sorry ladies!). You will also find female anal fins are more level to their body. The anal fin is the rigid looking fin coming from the bottom of the Betta Fish.

However, one giveaway of a female is her white spot on the underside of her belly. This white spot is called the ovipositor and is used during the breeding process.

4. What are the Best Caring Tips for Betta Fish?

Lots of people have written books on the subject of caring for Betta Fish but I'm going to give you my best tips that I've picked up along the way...

- Test your water's acidity level regularly. A PH level of 7 works best in my experience.

- Always try and keep the water temperature at around 75-80 Fahrenheit. I would recommend testing this regularly using a floating thermometer because big drops in water temperature can cause stress on your fish. Floating thermometers in my experience give the best accuracy reading because they are kept in the tank water.

- Always keep a lid/cover over the top of your tank with air holes in it because Betta Fish can jump and you might not be there to catch them!

- Any filtration system should be kept at a low level and you must take care not to put the air intake in such a position that it could cause your Betta to get hurt. Having your filter system at a high setting has been known to cause stress to your Betta.

- Try and clean your tank regularly, ideally twice a week. Remove bits of food caught under the stones, castles or leaves of your tank.

- As a rule of thumb I recommend 3 quarters of a gallon per Betta fish in your tank. Also, try and get a spacious tank to allow your Betta plenty of room to show off their personality, you'll be surprised some are very exciting to watch!

I've always found if you love your Betta like you love your own then you won't go far wrong, and with implementing the above you will be well on your way to having truly astonishing Betta Fish.

5. What should I feed my Betta Fish?

Surprisingly, Betta Fish are known to be fussy eaters (and you thought us humans were bad!). So it is best to feed them on a variety of foods, such as:

- Brine shrimp - Daphnia - Frozen Bloodworms - Blackworms (Tubifex) worms - Combination Betta Pellets from Pet Shops - Powder Fish Food if feeding Fry - Vegetables (such as green beans, not a whole one but in tiny portions)

I tend to find a regular feeding pattern of 2-3 times a day works best for Betta. Try as well to make portions eaten in one sitting otherwise any leftover food could lead to additional bacteria in the tank potentially causing disease for your Betta Fish.

6. What are Betta Fish also Known as?

Not a lot of people know this but Betta Fish are also known as Siamese Fighting Fish. The name originates because of the males aggressiveness and their "Fight to the Death" attitude if two males are put in the same tank together.

Betta fish are often referred to as Betta Splendens but this is a type of breed of Betta, which leads us nicely onto the next question...

7. What are the Different Types of Betta Fish Available?

There are many types of Betta Fish available, the most popular types I've listed below:

- Betta Splendens (the most common type) - Betta Bellica - Betta Coccina - Betta Picta

Some of the most popular Tail Types of Betta are:

- Veil Tail (this generally the most common tail type that you find at the pet stores)

- Delta Fish (normally any fish under the 180 degree tail span is considered a Delta)

- Super Delta Fish (normally any Betta with a tail span of 120-180 degrees)

- Fan Tail (the Betta's tail displays a smoothly rounded edge)

- Half Moon (as it's name suggest it's tail is the shape of a half moon - a 180 degrees span, this is the fish most breeders strive to achieve and display a truly fabulous colour!)

- Pin (Spade) Tail (the Betta's tail is pointed at the end)

Depending on what you are looking for this should hopefully give you enough information to choose a Betta fish at the pet store! ;-)

8. Can I Put Bamboo in With My Betta Fish?

Bamboo or Lucky Bamboo as it is also known, the type that is sold from pet stores, can be put into your tank with your Betta Fish. The bamboo can make your tank look more attractive and appealing to your guests, which is always a bonus!

However, what I recommend is that the bamboo is washed thoroughly before entry into the tank to help ensure there are no chemicals on it that could hurt your Betta. Also, it is a good idea to check the bamboo regularly just to see if it is rotting because it could release bacteria into your tank's water that could potentially harm your Betta fish. Changing your tank's water often will reduce the threat of bacteria happening.

9. What Ammonia Level Should My Tank be at?

Ideally, you want an ammonia level between 0-0.5. By changing your water regularly (about 30-50% twice a week, if you have high ammonia) this will help reduce the ammonia in your tank.

It is a good idea to monitor ammonia levels on a regular basis, because a high level is not healthy for your Betta Fish.

10. Would a Father Betta Harm His Children?

Unfortunately, a male (Father) Betta would harm his children (Fry). Although, the Father is very protective of the Fry during the spawning process it is common for them to attack the Fry as they become bigger and able to look after themselves.

I recommend removing the Father from the tank once the Fry are able to swim freely, usually 7-10 days after birth because he can become very aggressive towards them and potentially cause them harm.

That's the answers to the 10 most asked questions I get on a regular basis. I hope you found this information useful and are able to put it to good effect.

About the Author
Simon Anderson is a recognized Betta Fish Expert and has researched 37 different breeding and caring programs for Betta Fish on the Web! The best 3 he found are revealed along with his jealously guarded secrets on how to breed Astonishing Betta Fish at http://www.BettaFishSpecialist.com

For Other Tips On Aquarium Care or Tropical Fish Care (Click Here)

Aquarium Snails – Pets or Pests?

Tim — Sun, 22 Apr 2007 07:52:00 +0000

Aquarium Snails - Pets or Pests? by Lee Dobbins

Have you ever suddenly looked into your fish tank and noticed a bunch of little black things crawling around which, upon further inspection, revealed themselves to be tiny little snails? You probably wondered where the heck these things came from and what you should do with them. It's most likely that these little aquarium snails have hitched a ride in an aquarium plant you recently purchased and, while these can be terrible pests, there are other types of snails that can be quite beneficial to your fish tank as well as fun to look at.

The tiny snails, are most likely Pond snails which reproduce very quickly and have a voracious appetite for your aquarium plants. You may find literally hundreds of the snails in your tank and they will eat your plants quite quickly reducing them to nothing more than sticks.

While the pond snail isn't really much to look at, the apple snail, one of the most popular types of aquarium snail, is a lot more fun to have in your fish tank. These snails are actually the largest snails and can grow to be 6 inches in size. There are several species and while some of them do eat aquarium plants others do no, so if you are shopping for a snail you want to be sure you get ones that do not eat plants if you plan to also keep plants in your aquarium. The apple snail comes and a bunch of different colors including yellow, blue and brown.

Another type of snail for your fish tank is the Ramshorn snail. This snail has a shell that is curly like the horn on a ram. The snails do reproduce quickly and like to eat aquarium plants so they may not be a good choice if you want have plants in your tank. The Ramshorn snail comes in an interesting checkered pattern as well as plain black and plain red.

If you do want to keep aquarium plants and are also interested in getting a snail for your tank, you might consider a Trumpet snail. These guys rarely eat plants and prefer to forage around in the substrate eating the debris off the bottom making them beneficial fish tank inhabitants as they can help to clean the bottom of the tank. While you might see the trumpet snail clinging to the glass of the tank just below the water line in the morning, you most likely will not see them out and about during the daylight as they prefer to hide and then come out at night to eat.

You can keep snails with most other community fish including Tetras, Danios, Guppies and White Cloud Minnows, however there are some fish that simply do not get along with snails so you'll need to ask the clerk at your pet store if this snail will get along with the fish in your tank. If you do have those pesky little snails and want to get rid of them, you might try adding a Clown Loach to your tank is they love to eat snails and will happily seek out every little one of those pests and devour them!

About the Author
Lee Dobbins writes for Fish Tank Guide where you can get more information on setting up and maintaining a fish tank as well as more in depth information on aquarium snails.

For Other Tips On Aquarium Care or Tropical Fish Care (Click Here)

Home Aquarium Introduction

Tim — Mon, 19 Mar 2007 06:32:00 +0000

Home Aquarium Introduction by e-Aquarium

Keeping fish offers a low maintenance pet and a decorative living feature. Unlike many animals that will shed their hair, a home aquarium will enhance your living space with it's presence.

Adults and children can both appreciate a home aquarium. The calming effect of bubbling water is pleasing to the ear. Bright tropical fish stimulate the eye. Children can learn responsibility and the other lessons that a pet teaches.

More About Tropical Fish Care

Those who find pleasure in this hobby often find themselves buying one aquarium after another until they run out of space. If you have never kept fish before it may be difficult to understand why people enjoy them so much.

If you are looking to buy an aquarium there has never been a better time. Fish tank designs for today's modern homes are more decorative than the iron framed versions from the past. The shapes can range from flat panels that are wall mounted to centerpiece coffee tables that house fish in the base.

The best thing is that aquariums do not have to be expensive. There is a fish tank priced to suit any budget. A cheap aquarium can be found which will do the job of the more decorative models.

To equip the tank for best performance you will also need to select some aquarium products. When making your selections match equipment with the aquarium you selected. More powerful filters and heaters will be required for higher volume models.

When it comes to selecting the fish remember to choose specimens that will all live happily together. Matching fish with similar diets and water requirements simplifies many aspects of the process.

Following these principles will let you experience the joys of owning an aquarium for yourself. Before long you too will be enjoying the pleasures that fish offer.

More About Tropical Fish Care

About the Author
Andrew Fuller writes for e-Aquarium on topics such as buying aquarium products and the many aquarium designs you can choose from.

Click Here for more about Home Aquarium Care

Think About Fish before Purchasing a Fish Tank

Tim — Mon, 20 Nov 2006 23:11:00 +0000

Think About Fish before Purchasing a Fish Tank
By: Todd Hemme

More About Tropical Fish Care

When purchasing a fish tank it is important to keep in mind your
intentions for the internal habitat of your new aquatic
environment. Fish tank inhabitants require a four inch by four
inch surface area per inch of inhabitant. If you place a four
inch fish in your fish tank, you must reserve it 64 square
inches of surface area for optimal success. For example if you
have a fish tank 24x13x16 this aquatic habitat would be best
suited for 4 fish 4 inches in length. When you estimate the
length of you fish you should not include the tail. This method
will ensure optimal space for your fish tanks inhabitants.

One important factor to always consider is that your fish may
not always be the same size. If you are unsure of their size
capability, consult with you fish expert to get information on
their future size. Consider their possible growth when you are
planning your fish tank.

More About Tropical Fish

An overstocked tank will reach a level where the waste produced
by your tanks inhabitants will overtake the capabilities of the
filter. When this happens ammonia and nitrates will climb, which
will have harmful affects on you fish tanks inhabitants. The
challenges of an overstocked tank do not end with the water
maintenance issues.

Another sign of an overstocked tank includes fish that are not
maintaining the growth rate of other like species within your
fish tank. These fish are likely not getting the proper amount
of food and feeding time. These fish will likely become sick and
possible die.

Learn More About Tropical Fish

There are many aspects to consider when purchasing a new tank.
The experts at www.aquariumsource.com are knowledgeable in
suiting you with the proper tank for your aquatic dreams.
Aquariumsource specializes in acrylic fish tanks and furniture
quality fish tank stands.

Submitted by: Todd Hemme Aquariumsource

http://www.aquariumsource.com

About the author:
Todd Hemme is the President of Aquariumsource.

Tropical Fish Care

What Are Bottom Water Tropical Fish?

Tim — Sat, 08 Jul 2006 05:33:00 +0000

What Are Bottom Water Tropical Fish?
by: Nate Jamieson

Bottom water fish are those that prefer living at the lowest level of the aquarium. It's not that they can't swim into the upper regions, they will when spurred by a fish that pesters them, or just for the sake of a quick dash around the tank. But for the most part, they live on the bottom, which is where most of their food comes from.

Tropical fish that prefer the bottom of the tank, usually eat algae that grows there, as well as leftover food that falls on the substrate or the broad leaves of some plants. In a way, the bottom water fish are the housekeepers of your aquarium, cleaning up scraps and preventing the build up of algae. But this is not always a sufficient diet, and they need to be given food that comes in a form or shape specifically designed to reach, and appeal to the bottom feeder.

This is usually a wafer shape, dense enough that it sinks past the top and middle feeders, to rest on the bottom and soften. The bottom feeders can then browse at their leisure, returning later to clean up the remains. In that respect, they are not like top and middle feeders, where food is given a pinch at a time, and feeding should stop as soon as they lose interest. Those tropical fish that hang around the bottom tend to be "grazers", and not the gulpers that you'll find dashing for the surface when they see you coming.

Some of the better-known bottom water fish are the loach, and catfish. There are also algae eaters, Botia, Corys, Knifefish and the more unusual specimens like Goby and Needle Nose.

About The Author

Nate Jamieson

Love Tropical Fish? Find out how to create a beautiful, low-cost tropical fish aquarium with complimentary tips at http://www.TropicalFishIsland.com.

Tropical Fish Care

Tropical Fish : Tank Basics

Tim — Fri, 12 May 2006 06:51:00 +0000

Tropical Fish : Tank Basics
by: John Mallon

Tropical Fish : Tank Basics

Aquarium fish are like pets and you have to know what you're doing and this article will cover one of the basics : what to look for when buying tropical fish, this article will cover the tank. Look for a tank that is big enough to store the tropical fish you want (keep note that some fish need bigger tanks as they need more place, so do your homework !) I'd suggest to go for a bigger tank because having some extra room for your tropical fish always a good idea. When you're in the store make sure to take some extra equipment with you cause you'll need it. I suggest getting the following equipment for your tank:

1. Heater

The heater is the most important part of a tropical tank. For most Tropical Fish, 25C is a good average. 4 watts per gallon is ok, but each heater will state the size aquaria it accommodate for. For the larger aquaria, it is often best to have two smaller heaters for a couple of reasons, one because should one break, u still have one to keep your tank going until u can replace it, and two should you have 1 big heater, and the thermostat got stuck on, it would raise the temperature of the tank far more and in less time than a smaller one would. All heaters now have a built in thermostat which turns the heater on and off when needed to keep the tank at a stable temperature, the heater should never be un-plugged.

2. Filter.

Best to check if the filter fits your tank. this is very important !.The size of the filter depends upon 3 factors :

- The tank size

- Number of aquarium fish

- Plants planted in the tank

There are lots of different types of filters available : internal filters, external filters, gravel filters and box filters (I advise to skip this one cause they only work for small tanks).

3. Gravel

The gravel is mainly for aesthetic purposes, but it also is vital if you are keeping live plants as they need a substrate of some sort to anchor them selves down with.

If you have a planted tank, then 2-3inches of gravel is advised, but if u have an unplanted tank, then u may use ½ - 2inches of gravel.

The gravel also holds some of the bacteria in the tank, and if the tank has an under gravel filter, then the gravel will contain nearly all of the bacteria in the tank.

These last 3 points are the basic equipment parts you’ll need to keep your fish healthy in your new tank. In my following articles I will cover the fish themselves and their basics.

I hope you learned something here and I will see you in my next article or on http://fishtropical.blogspot.com.

About The Author
John Mallon is a fish fanatic who has been taking care of them for over 15 years.

Tropical Fish